the bywater, new orleans louisiana: be nice or leave

Known as “The Sliver by the River,” the Bywater’s small, tight knit community of locals, artisans and musicians have carved out their own colorful neighborhood niche in the Crescent City.

A double shotgun house in the the Bywater. Photo by Davis Allen, @prcnola

The Bywater is the perfect place to stroll (with to-go drink in hand) and just see what you happen upon. Each home is creatively painted, decorated and adorned with the homeowner’s personal flair and political statements. Art is absolutely everywhere, it seems to bubble out of the potholes.

See where the day, or a second line, takes you and laissez les bon temps rouler! (Let the good times roll!)

Planning your trip

When: The best time to visit New Orleans is between November — April. Best to avoid the summer months, as the heat and humidity is overwhelming.

Navigate: Check out the custom Google Map for pins of every location mentioned in this guide. Just about everything is walking distance.

Accommodation: Historically, the Bywater has been an affordable place for artists to make ends meet, but the arrival of AirBnb has driven up costs of living for the locals. If you use Airbnb to stay in the Bywater, please rent only “part of a home,” to help this neighborhood sustain it’s community of artists and musicians that make it so special.

10:00am: bloody mary boozy brunch

In New Orleans, brunch, not breakfast, is the most important meal of the day. Here are three options to get your day started, depending on availability and budget.

The Country Club ($$$): Known for their Saturday Drag Brunch (booked out 6 months in advance), Sunday Funday clothing optional pool parties and Bloody Mary Bar, The Country Club is all you could want and more in a NOLA brunch experience. Reservations can be made in advance.

Elizabeth’s ($$$): A few blocks away, Elizabeth’s offers all the bells and whistles for traditional Southern brunch fare. The funky artwork outside and in is all done by native NOLA artist, Dr. Bob, who we’ll meet in a bit. Sit on the outdoor porch to get a gorgeous view of Crescent Park and The Rusty Rainbow Bridge. Oh, and don’t forget to order the praline bacon, and a mimosa to-go.

Satsuma Cafe ($): Any vegans or veggos in the house? Satsuma is a saving grace in the meat heavy Creole cuisine of New Orleans. Their breakfast plates and sandwiches are a little easier on the belly, and the budget. Instead of that Bloody, get yourself a freshly made beet juice— it’ll cure what ails ya.

12:00pm shop local at piety street market

If you’re lucky enough to be in the Bywater on the second Saturday of the month, Piety Street Market is a must. In the Old Ironworks’ courtyard, artisans from all over the city gather to share their unique crafts with you.

Cubs the Poet is one of these artists, and writes custom poems on an old school typewriter painted with his slogan, “drop out, write poetry.” Give him any topic and he will write a poem on the spot made with love, just for you.

If you can’t make it to Piety Street Market, check out Cubs’ poems for a taste.

& Euclid records

Afterwards stop by Euclid Records, a funky used vinyl shop know for it’s flamboyant pink paint job, decorative art, and famous Record Store Day parties (April 22nd FYI).

Honestly, their entire ‘About Me’ page says it all. Here’s just a snippet: “At the center of it all is the music, constantly discussed, packed, unpacked, organized, bought and sold. There are lots of 45s to dig through. There are lots of LPs to flip through. Have culture you want to ramble about? The staff will ramble on with you. They accept demo tapes. You know, record store stuff!”

On your way out don’t forget to grab a copy of the local newspaper Antigravity, for a taste of the hazit’s, happenin’s, and goin’ ons with local New Orleans musicians, artists, and illustrators.

Check out Antigravity’s interview with the founders of The Music Box Village and Euclid Records About Me Page.

Outside of Dr. Bob’s with his iconic slogan: “be nice or leave.”

2:00pm meet Dr. Bob

Dr. Bob is who we’d call a ‘true New Orleans character’. He’s been in the Big Easy long enough to reminisce rent in the French Quarter costing $65 a month (bills included), and whose animated bottle cap art is a big part of what gives the Bywater it’s colorful charm. Look closely and you’ll see his signature slogan, “Be Nice or Leave,” in almost every bar, restaurant and shop in the city.

His studio is open to the public everyday from 10:00am to 5:00, 4:20pm in the summer. If you’re lucky to meet him, you’re in for a few shotgun stories— both the house and gun variety.

Check out ‘Very NOLA’s interview with Dr. Bob, to meet him and find out how his slogan “Be Nice or Leave” came to be.

& tour Studio Be

Before it was known as ‘Studio BE’ this abandoned 35,000 foot warehouse was just that— until artist BMike ‘put a lil paint where it ain’t’. He turned the empty warehouse into a collection of street art murals that together tell the collective stories of the black experience in America, and what it means to be human. The portraits of everyday people with messages that say, “I am my ancestor’s wildest dream” and interactive exhibitions like, “The ball should bounce the same for everyone” will make you think. As BMike says, “As an artist, how do you educate, inspire, agitate? That’s what art was always supposed to do. And [Studio Be] is my small contribution to that legacy.”

For a virtual tour of Studio BE and interview with BMike, check out Go NOLA's ‘Inside Studio BE.’

4:00pm Make some music at Music Box village

The Music Box Village is an interactive sculpture garden made up entirely of seemingly lost items, first twisted and constructed into free standing buildings, and then upon closer inspection— musical instruments. These “musical-houses” welcome interaction, collaboration and play, and inspire creative expression from visitors of all ages and music making experience.

In true New Orleans fashion, there is a bar inside with beer, wine and cocktails to support the nonprofit arts organization, New Orleans Airlift. Grab a few brews and walk over the railroad tracks to the levee for a beautiful sunset by the water.

Virtually visit the Music Box by watching their Kickstarter video. The Music Box also hosts events and concerts— check their Eventbrite for more.

The famous cheese platter at Bacchanal. Photo Credit: @tiffanylanglinais

6:00pm: learn the meaning of bacchanal

Bacchanal Wine is the ultimate backyard dinner party. Choose your own wine and cheese from the shop inside, find an open table in the courtyard under the fairy lights and enjoy the live jazz music all night long. Your cheese will come out on a platter with fresh bread, olives, cornichon pickles, chutneys and candied nuts. There’s nothing better.

FYI Bacchanal doesn’t take reservations and there is often a line out the door. Come early and stay late!

9:00pm: get down on St Claude st

(The following bars border the Marigny neighborhood next-door, so it’s best to take an uber from the Bywater at night.)

Hi-Ho Lounge: For 13 years (2004-2017) New Orleans legend DJ Soul Sister spun “rare groove” vinyl every Saturday night at her infamous Hustle parties. She now plays Hi-Ho occasionally, but there is still a killer backyard, beautiful bar and open dance floor to enjoy.

Allways Lounge: Across the street from Hi-Ho, Allways hosts all kinds of drag shows, burlesque bingo, swingin’ Sundays and the occasional art market. Check out the always busy event calendar here.

Saturn Bar: Saturn is a funky spot sporting leopard-print velour booths, sci-fi posters, drippy neon signs and of course, cheap drinks. Check their calendar for when their throwback vinyl dance parties take place and more.

During Carnival Season (January-March) keep an eye out for when Mardi Gras krewes: Krewe of Chewbaccus, 'tit Rəx, Krewe Bohème, and the Society of St Anne, parade through the Bywater and end at these bars. These are some of the best parties of the year, which is saying a lot for New Orleans.

thanks

To close with a quote,

“Madame Lily Devalier always asked "Where are you?" in a way that insinuated that there were only two places on earth one could be: New Orleans and somewhere ridiculous.”
― Tom Robbins, Jitterbug Perfume

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